Six yards of pure elegance – It’s what a handloom saree adds to any Indian woman’s wardrobe. But it’s not just elegance. It’s heritage woven by human hands, history coloured into threads and culture draped across the body like a second skin. A handloom saree has the fragrance of its place, the beat of its loom, and the legacy of all those generations who’ve preserved the craft with tenderness, expertise and unassuming devotion.
Walk into any part of India from north to south and east to west, and you’ll find a different saree waiting to be draped. Each one speaks the language of its land. The colours of Rajasthan’s Leheriya reflect desert festivals. The golden glow of Assam’s Muga silk echoes the sunlight on Brahmaputra banks. Kanjeevaram sarees from Tamil Nadu stand strong with temple borders, just as the riverside ghats of Banaras hum in the intricate weaves of a Banarasi saree.
This varied wealth was not achieved in a single night. It’s the culmination of centuries of local understanding, artistic restraint and cultural pride. Now, in an era where mass production regularly places heritage at the back of the bus, handloom sarees proudly resist being forgotten.
Let’s go on a region-by-region tour of India and see why every handloom saree is not merely a piece of apparel but a piece of history that should have a special space in your wardrobe.
North Indian Sarees: Royalty and Timelessness
Banarasi Saree (Uttar Pradesh)
The Banarasi saree, which is originally made in Varanasi, has a status that is rivalled by very few sarees. Made from fine silk and embroidered with zari (gold and silver embroidery threads), Banarasi sarees have elaborate Mughal-style designs like jhallar (bel-like designs), floral patterns and characters from Indian mythology. These sarees are not only bridal favourites but are also treated as heirloom sarees, from which they are passed from generation to generation.
Chikankari Saree (Uttar Pradesh)
Beautiful and elegant, Chikankari sarees are a Lucknow treasure. Created with fine fabrics like cotton, georgette or muslin, the signature of this saree is its intricate white-on-white embroidery, floral motifs embroidered by hand in traditional patterns that have been handed down through generations. It can be worn for everyday purposes as well as ceremonial occasions.
Bhagalpuri Silk Saree (Bihar)
Originating from Bhagalpur, popularly referred to as the ‘Silk City’ of India, Bhagalpuri silk sarees are crafted from wild silk reared from the Antheraea moth. The sarees are distinguished by their earthy sophistication, natural dyes and tribal motifs. The fabric is slightly rough but rich, ideal for humid weather and formal events.
Pashmina Saree (Jammu & Kashmir)
Made from the soft undercoat of Himalayan goats, Pashmina sarees are warm, light and velvety. These sarees are hand-embroidered in Kashmiri designs like chinar leaves and paisleys. It would take several months to complete one saree, so it is a coveted piece.
South Indian Sarees: Grandeur in Threads
Kanjeevaram Saree (Tamil Nadu)
Also referred to as Kanchipuram sarees, Kanjeevaram sarees are made from the best mulberry silk and usually contain temple motifs, peacocks, checks and floral borders. These sarees are perfect for weddings owing to the contrasting borders and luxurious zari work. Attested by the Central Silk Board of India, the Kanjeevaram weave is among the strongest types of silk, which will last decades if well cared for.
Mysore Silk Saree (Karnataka)
Having originated from the Wodeyar dynasty’s royal looms, Mysore silk sarees are light, soft and rich in texture. Famed for their understated beauty, the sarees have plain bodies with contrasting golden borders woven in pure silk and actual zari.
Kasavu Saree (Kerala)
Worn during festivals such as Onam and Vishu, Kasavu sarees are the very essence of elegance. With its off-white-coloured body and golden border, a Kasavu saree is an image of the purity and simplicity of Malayali culture. Traditionally created using cotton, newer models also include silk, increasing their ceremonial value. Traditional gold jewellery of Kerala completes the look for this saree.
Pochampally Ikkat Saree (Telangana)
These sarees are praised for their intricate double Ikkat method, in which both warp and weft yarns are tie-dyed prior to weaving. Pochampally sarees are silk-cotton mix sarees and are famous for their precision geometry and rich colours.
East Indian Sarees: Tales in Silk and Cotton
Baluchari Saree (West Bengal)
Woven with rich narration and workmanship, Baluchari sarees usually contain mythological stories embroidered on the pallu with contrasting coloured silk threads. These sarees, which originated in Bishnupur, are a symbol of Bengali culture and are usually worn on Durga Puja and wedding occasions.
Tant Saree (West Bengal)
Tant sarees are fresh, light and very comfortable, made primarily of cotton. Known for their affordability and local designs, such as florals, paisleys and traditional Bengali borders, Tant sarees are suitable for daily wear, particularly in summer.
Bomkai Saree (Odisha)
With both tribal and classical inputs, Bomkai sarees are woven in silk and cotton. Temple patterns, fish and lotus are the traditional motifs, with the work in contrasting colours often being carried out in the threadwork. The sarees are GI-tagged as well and are greatly admired for their heavy pallus and bold colours.
Sambalpuri Saree (Odisha)
These sarees are distinguished by their intricate Ikkat designs and reversible borders. Woven with both cotton and silk, Sambalpuri sarees possess tribal art and nature-inspired motifs.
Muga, Eri & Pat Silk Sarees (Assam)
Muga, Eri and Pat silk sarees constitute the resplendent trio of Assamese handloom. Muga silk sarees, especially, have a golden natural lustre and are considered among the world’s most durable silks. Classic floral and avian motifs add to their beauty, which are perfect for weddings and festivals.
West Indian Sarees: Colourful, Vivid and Luxurious
Bandhani Saree (Gujarat & Rajasthan)
Bandhani is a laborious process of tie-and-dye that creates unique dot patterns. Sarees are particularly worn for Navratri and other colourful festivals. Bandhani sarees are available in silk, cotton and georgette and are colourful and vibrant.
Patola Saree (Gujarat)
One of the most complex weaves of India, Patola sarees are done with double Ikkat, with every thread dyed individually prior to weaving. It takes six months to one year to make them. Royal families have worn them in the past, and thus, Patola sarees are symbols of wealth and perfection.
Leheriya Saree (Rajasthan)
Leheriya sarees portray wave-like diagonal patterns created with resist dyeing. Worn traditionally during the festival of monsoons, Teej, they represent happiness and newness. The bright colours are ideal for lightening up any festive atmosphere.
Paithani Saree (Maharashtra)
Famous for their peacock and lotus patterns and golden zari pallu, Paithani sarees are made from high-quality silk in Aurangabad. It is passed down as a family possession because of its luxurious texture and intricate artwork.
Central Indian Sarees: Simplicity and Elegance
Chanderi Saree (Madhya Pradesh)
Chanderi sarees, which are woven in the town of the same name, blend silk and cotton to create lightweight yet shiny drapes. The motifs are common coin, floral and peacock, with intricate zari work. Chanderi sarees are refined enough for office wear as well as weddings.
Maheshwari Saree (Madhya Pradesh)
These sarees have geometric borders and reversible pallus. Lightweight and trendy, Maheshwari sarees are an option for semi-formal events. The weave incorporates a combination of silk and cotton, providing strength without losing elegance.
Lesser-Known Yet Beautiful Sarees
Ilkal Saree (Karnataka)
Ilkal sarees are known for their bold colour schemes and distinct borders. A special feature is the ‘Tope Teni’ technique used to join the body and pallu. Often worn during religious events, these sarees carry the cultural identity of northern Karnataka.
Kota Doria Saree (Rajasthan)
Woven with silk and cotton in square motifs known as ‘khats’, Kota Doria sarees are extremely lightweight. They are perfect for India’s hot weather and have become the epitome of summer glamour.
Uppada Saree (Andhra Pradesh)
These sarees are renowned for their jamdani weaving style, where motifs are woven directly into the warp. Uppada sarees are silky and rich in texture and usually have intricate floral and geometric designs.
Dharmavaram Saree (Andhra Pradesh)
Popularly referred to as the southern twin of Banarasi sarees, Dharmavaram sarees are heavy on zari work and colour contrasts. The double-coloured pallu and heavy borders make it perfect for large-scale events.
Buy Handloom Sarees Directly from Weavers
In an era when quick fashion rules, lending your support to handloom sarees is not just a fashion statement; it’s a self-aware move toward safeguarding India’s rich textile heritage, patronising native weavers and wearing a tale spun in convention.
If you are someone who appreciates craftsmanship, tradition and authenticity, then support the hands of the heritage. Buy from weavers directly all over India at Indiahandmade, a Ministry of Textiles initiative. No middlemen, no commission; pure weaves from the heart of India straight to your closet.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many types of handloom sarees are available in India?
India boasts more than 100 known types of handloom sarees, with a different style in each state. They vary from heavy silk-intensive weaves such as Banarasi and Kanjeevaram to light ones made of cotton such as Tant and Chikankari. The count keeps increasing as traditional weaves get rediscovered and revived.
How is a handloom saree different from a powerloom saree?
Handloom sarees are handwoven on a loom by master weavers, usually using local yarns. Each is individual and might have slight differences, often prized as signs of authenticity. Powerloom sarees are mass-produced and machine-woven, without the elaborate craftsmanship and personality of handwoven material.
Which handloom sarees are best for weddings?
Banarasi, Kanjeevaram, Paithani and Patola sarees are best for weddings because of their luxurious texture, zari embroidery and grandeur. All of these have traditional origins and are often included in a bridal trousseau in various Indian cultures.
Can handloom sarees be used for everyday wear?
Yes. Sarees such as Chikankari (Uttar Pradesh), Tant (West Bengal) and Kota Doria (Rajasthan) are actually designed to be light and airy, which is why they are suited for everyday wear, particularly in hot and humid weather.
How do I recognise an authentic handloom saree?
Look for minor irregularities in weave or thread tension. These are hallmarks of handloom work. Many authentic handloom sarees now come with a government-issued Handloom Mark or Silk Mark to verify their authenticity. Nevertheless, buying from trusted sources like Indiahandmade ensures transparency.
Are handloom sarees expensive?
Not necessarily. While sarees such as Patola and Pashmina are high-end because they take time, labour and money to create them, others such as Ilkal, Tant, Bomkai and Kasavu are budget-friendly. Handloom sarees come in a broad price range, making them suitable for various budgets.
